Lingyin Temple (Temple of Soul's Retreat) 灵隐寺

Welcome, everyone, to the Lingyin Temple Scenic Area in Hangzhou. This is where our tour begins today.

Lingyin Temple is located at Number 1, Fayun Lane, Lingyin Road, Xihu District, Hangzhou, within the Feilai Feng Scenic Area. You are currently standing at the scenic area entrance, where you'll find the ticket office, visitor center, and tour guide services. Entering requires two separate tickets: the first is the Feilai Feng Scenic Area admission at 45 yuan per person; the second is the Lingyin Temple incense-and-flower offering ticket at 30 yuan per person. Students and visitors between 60 and 69 years old receive a half-price discount, while those aged 70 and above enter free of charge.

From the entrance, we'll first pass through the Feilai Feng grotto carving zone, then walk alongside the Lengquan Stream until we reach the main gate of Lingyin Temple. The path is lined with towering ancient trees, a babbling stream, and fresh air — even if you're not here to pay your respects, the walk alone is a pleasure.

A few things to keep in mind: Lingyin Temple is a sacred Buddhist site, so please dress appropriately — shorts, sleeveless tops, and sandals are not permitted. Inside the halls, photography is not allowed, and please refrain from pointing your camera at the Buddha statues or the monks. That's basic courtesy here.

All right, please follow me inside. We'll head first to the Feilai Feng carvings.

We've now arrived at the Feilai Feng grotto carving zone. Feilai Feng is not part of Lingyin Temple itself — it's a small hill in front of the temple, and it's home to one of the largest collections of rock-carved Buddhist sculptures in southeast China.

Look along both banks of the stream at the cliff faces. More than 300 carvings of varying sizes are scattered across them. These were first chiseled during the Five Dynasties period and flourished through the Song and Yuan dynasties, depicting primarily Maitreya Buddha, Guanyin Bodhisattva, and the Luohan. The most celebrated of them all is the round-bellied Maitreya near Qinglin Cave. Notice how he sits with his chest and belly exposed, beaming with laughter, the eighteen Luohan gathered around him — full of life and energy, very different from the solemn statues you'll find inside a traditional temple. This captures something essential about Chinese popular Buddhist art.

The name Feilai Feng has a wonderful story behind it. Legend has it that during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the Indian monk Huili came to Hangzhou and was struck by the sight of this hill. He exclaimed: "Isn't this the small ridge from Mount Gridhrakuta in India? How did it fly all the way here?" And so the hill came to be called Feilai Feng — "the Peak That Flew Here."

Stroll slowly along the path beside the stream and you'll encounter carvings from different eras in different styles. Some are well preserved; others have been worn by time. Look up as you walk — the Buddhas carved into the cliff face, framed by green trees and the flowing stream, create a scene of quiet contemplation.

Photo tip: Photography is permitted throughout the Feilai Feng carving zone, but please do not touch or climb the carvings. The round-bellied Maitreya is the most popular shot — stand on the stone bridge across the stream and you can capture both the statue and the water in a single frame.

We've now arrived at Ligong Pagoda and Lengquan Pavilion, an important stopping point just before the main gate of Lingyin Temple.

The stone pagoda in front of you is called Ligong Pagoda, built to honor Huili, the founding monk of Lingyin Temple. Huili was an Indian Buddhist master who came to Hangzhou during the Eastern Jin Dynasty. When he saw these beautiful peaks, he believed this was a place "where spirits dwell in seclusion," and so he founded Lingyin Temple — which is why he is venerated as its founding patriarch. The pagoda stands about 8 meters tall, its surface carved with Buddhist figures and scriptures, and despite more than a thousand years of weathering, it remains remarkably intact.

Beside the pagoda is Lengquan Pavilion, named for the cold, clear stream — Lengquan Stream — that flows in front of it. Feel the water if you like; it's strikingly cool even in summer. This stream flows year-round without fail, and that constant, crystal clarity is what gave it the name Lengquan, meaning "Cold Spring." The Tang Dynasty poet Bai Juyi, during his time as governor of Hangzhou, was particularly fond of this spot and wrote: "I've visited Lengquan Pavilion many times before — even in the height of summer, it feels like clear autumn here."

This is the best place to rest before entering the temple. Sit for a moment, listen to the stream, take in the ancient trees and the mossy stones around you, and let your mind settle before stepping through the gate.

Photo tip: The surroundings of Ligong Pagoda and Lengquan Pavilion lend themselves to atmospheric shots — old stones, flowing water, a small bridge, and dappled woodland light. In summer, the shade of the streamside trees creates beautiful patterns of light and shadow with a distinctly Jiangnan feel.

We've now arrived at the first hall of Lingyin Temple — the Heavenly King Hall.

Look up at the plaque hanging above the entrance. It reads "Yunlin Chan Monastery," written by the Kangxi Emperor himself during an imperial tour of Hangzhou in the Qing Dynasty. Lingyin Temple's formal name is actually Yunlin Chan Monastery, but the popular name Lingyin Temple has always stuck, and that's the name the world knows.

Step inside, and at the center of the hall you'll find a smiling Maitreya Buddha, broad of belly and radiating goodwill — the very image of boundless generosity. In Buddhist belief, Maitreya is the Buddha of the future, who will descend to earth and achieve enlightenment in an age to come. Behind him stands Weituo Bodhisattva, the guardian of the Dharma. The direction in which his staff is held is a traditional signal indicating whether the monastery accepts wandering monks as guests.

On either side of the hall stand the Four Heavenly Kings: the King of the East who upholds the realm, the King of the South who causes it to grow, the King of the West who watches over it with his many eyes, and the King of the North who hears all. Together they are held to bring good rains and harvests and to protect the Dharma and the temple.

A reminder: photography is not permitted inside the hall, and please avoid pointing at the Buddha statues. If you'd like to pay your respects, incense burners are available in the courtyard outside.

Photo tip: The exterior of the Heavenly King Hall and the "Yunlin Chan Monastery" plaque make excellent subjects. Try shooting from the side of the forecourt to capture the upturned eaves and the ancient trees together — it conveys the gravity of the temple beautifully.

We've now reached the heart of Lingyin Temple — the Mahavira Hall.

"Mahavira" is an honorific title for Shakyamuni Buddha, meaning the Great Hero — one who has conquered all demonic obstacles. This is the main hall of Lingyin Temple and one of the tallest single-story, double-eaved timber-frame structures surviving in China. Look at the hall before you: the roof rises with authority, the bracket sets are masterfully worked, and the entire structure commands deep respect.

At the center of the hall stands the gilded Shakyamuni Buddha, 24.8 meters tall, carved in sections from camphor wood. Standing beneath this figure, you'll feel a sense of profound solemnity. Behind the main statue is a large sculptural tableau depicting Guanyin Bodhisattva preaching and saving beings on Putuoshan, encircled by celestial figures and attendants.

Along the side walls, eighteen Luohan are arranged in sequence — each one distinct in posture and expression, some serene, some fierce. Buddhist murals run across the east and west walls, their colors aged by the centuries but their artistry still apparent.

The Mahavira Hall is the most active place of worship in Lingyin Temple. Many devotees come here to light incense and pray for peace, health, and good fortune. If you'd like to offer incense, there's a designated area outside the hall.

Photo tip: Photography is not permitted inside the Mahavira Hall, but the exterior and the forecourt can be photographed freely. A wide-angle lens works well to convey the hall's scale. Early morning or late afternoon light adds depth and dimension to the architecture.

We've now moved behind the Mahavira Hall to the Bhaisajyaguru Hall.

This hall enshrines Bhaisajyaguru — the Medicine Buddha, whose full title is the Lapis Lazuli Light Tathagata, master of the Pure Lapis Lazuli World of the east. The Medicine Buddha presides over the relief of illness and the granting of long life, so many people come here to pray for good health and freedom from disease.

Look at the center of the hall: Bhaisajyaguru sits on a lotus throne, with Sunlight Bodhisattva on his left and Moonlight Bodhisattva on his right, together forming the Three Sages of Bhaisajyaguru. Around the hall stand the Twelve Yaksha Generals — the guardian protectors of the Medicine Buddha, each bearing a weapon, each presiding over one month of the year and one of the twelve divisions of the day.

In Chinese popular belief, the Medicine Buddha is among the most beloved of all Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, alongside Guanyin and Amitabha. If you or someone in your family has been unwell, you're welcome to stand here quietly and offer a heartfelt wish.

The architecture of the Bhaisajyaguru Hall echoes that of the Mahavira Hall, though on a smaller scale, and the atmosphere here is calmer and more intimate. Devotees often line up quietly outside to pay their respects — please keep your voice low and respect their practice.

Photo tip: The exterior of the hall can be photographed. The incense burner and the prayer streamers in front of the hall make excellent foreground elements. For architectural detail, the ridge ornaments and the bronze bells along the roofline are worth a close look.

We've now arrived at the Sutra Library, an important structure on Lingyin Temple's central axis dedicated to preserving Buddhist scriptures and cultural relics.

As the name suggests, this is where scriptures are kept. The collection includes major editions of the Buddhist canon printed across different dynasties — among them the Qianlong Canon and the Jiaxing Canon — along with works of calligraphy and painting by notable figures, stone rubbings, and temple archives. For scholars of Chinese Buddhist history, art history, and the local history of Hangzhou, these materials are extraordinarily valuable.

The Sutra Library is elegant and dignified in style. Its inner holdings are generally not open to the public, but visitors are welcome to view the exterior and any related displays. The courtyard in front of the building is quiet and shaded by old trees — one of the more peaceful corners of the temple complex.

In the Buddhist tradition, a sutra library is not merely a storehouse. It represents the living transmission of the Dharma across generations. A complete Buddhist canon runs to thousands of volumes — the product of generations of monks and devoted followers. Standing before this building, you're standing in front of more than a thousand years of cultural continuity.

Photo tip: The Sutra Library itself is an attractive subject, with its upturned eaves, bracket sets, and stone steps at the entrance. Shooting from the side captures the building's layered depth together with its surrounding environment.

We've now reached the Avatamsaka Hall, the final hall on Lingyin Temple's central axis.

This hall enshrines the Three Sages of the Avatamsaka: Vairocana Buddha, Manjushri Bodhisattva, and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva. Vairocana is the Dharma Body Buddha, representing the perfect and unobstructed truth of all things. Manjushri embodies wisdom — he holds a sword and rides a lion. Samantabhadra embodies vows and practice — he holds a ruyi scepter and rides a white elephant. Together, these three express the core teaching of the Avatamsaka Sutra: that the dharma realm is perfectly luminous and that principle and phenomena interpenetrate without obstruction.

The Avatamsaka Hall is the highest-situated hall in Lingyin Temple, built on a raised platform, giving it a commanding presence. The statues inside are imposing and beautifully wrought, and the murals are richly colored, expressing the splendid artistic vision of the Huayan school of Chinese Buddhism. Because this is the end of the central axis, fewer visitors make it this far, and the atmosphere here is especially peaceful.

The Avatamsaka Sutra is one of the most important scriptures in Buddhism, describing the journey of the Bodhisattva toward enlightenment and the magnificent vision of the Flower Garland World. The Huayan school is one of the major schools of Chinese Buddhism, rooted in this sutra and teaching that all living beings possess Buddha nature and that all phenomena interpenetrate without hindrance.

Photo tip: The Avatamsaka Hall is elevated above the rest of the complex, making it possible to photograph the hall in relation to the surrounding forested hills. A wide-angle lens works well to capture the hall set against the mountain behind it. On misty mornings, the scene takes on an otherworldly quality.

We've now arrived at Jigong Hall, situated on the eastern side of Lingyin Temple, where the legendary Southern Song Dynasty monk Jigong is enshrined.

Jigong's monastic name was Daoji, and he took his vows at Lingyin Temple during the Southern Song Dynasty. On the surface, he appeared wild and disheveled — wearing a tattered robe, carrying a broken fan, acting the madman — but he was deeply learned in the Dharma and spent his life championing the poor and punishing the wicked. The people revered him as "the Living Buddha Jigong." His stories have been told across China for centuries, and many have been adapted into television dramas and traditional opera.

Jigong's relationship with Lingyin Temple is a curious one. According to legend, he was once expelled from the temple for his unruly behavior, but eventually returned and lived out his days here. That history is why Lingyin Temple honors him as one of its most significant figures.

Inside the hall, Jigong is enshrined in the form we all recognize: the grinning monk with his worn hat and broken fan. Murals and illustrated accounts of his life and legends line the walls, giving this hall a warm and lively atmosphere quite unlike the solemnity of the other halls.

Photo tip: The exterior of Jigong Hall can be photographed; if photography is permitted inside, please turn off your flash. Many visitors enjoy striking Jigong's signature pose for a photo out front — feel free to join in, but please keep the noise level down for others around you.

We've now arrived at our final stop on today's tour of Lingyin Temple — the Five Hundred Arhats Hall.

The hall is located on the western side of the temple complex and houses five hundred bronze Arhat statues. Arhats are those in Buddhism who have achieved full spiritual realization and will no longer be subject to the cycle of rebirth. Five hundred Arhats is one of the great recurring subjects of Chinese Buddhist art, and no two statues here are alike — some sit in meditation, some hold ritual implements, some appear to be mid-conversation. Each one is alive with its own character.

Look toward the center of the hall, where you'll find a bronze shrine of the Four Sacred Buddhist Mountains, crafted with exceptional artistry. The Four Sacred Mountains are Mount Wutai in Shanxi, Mount Emei in Sichuan, Mount Jiuhua in Anhui, and Mount Putuo in Zhejiang — the sacred grounds of Manjushri, Samantabhadra, Ksitigarbha, and Guanyin, respectively.

The Five Hundred Arhats Hall is one of the most visually rich spaces in the entire temple. Take your time wandering through — there is always another face to discover. There is a popular folk belief that if you find an Arhat whose expression or bearing somehow mirrors your own, it is a sign of a special spiritual connection.

And with that, friends, our tour of Lingyin Temple comes to a close. From the Feilai Feng grottoes to the Five Hundred Arhats Hall, we've walked through more than 1,600 years of Buddhist history and encountered something of the deep heritage of Chan culture in Jiangnan. Lingyin Temple is not simply a monastery — it is a living record of Chinese civilization. We hope you're leaving with a sense of peace and stillness. Thank you for joining us today, and safe travels.